Posts in category 'Great Oregon Hikes'

There Are Two Trailheads to Summit Black Butte

Many people will hike to the summit of Black Butte during the summer. It is an iconic volcano located just outside of Sisters next to Black Butte Resort which challenges both visitors and locals. Most people will take the gravel road which transitions into a terrible dirt road to the upper trailhead which is located 1500 feet below the summit. Hikers who start here will find a limited space parking area complete with facilities which require a current forest pass. Those who really want to challenge themselves can start at the base of Black Butte at the historic trail head located near Camp Sherman. The road to this trailhead is mostly paved until the turn off to the parking area so hikers avoid driving over challenging dirt roads before they start their trek. No parking pass but very limited parking available.

For those hiking the historic route, the trail gradually climbs as hikers pass through the old growth forest located at the base of Black Butte. In May, 2025, early signs of spring were evident with blooming wildflowers. After roughly 3/4 of a mile, the path steepens and hikers start climbing Black Butte. Peek-a-boo views of Black Butte Ranch, Suttle Lake, and the Cascades can be seen through the tall Ponderosa Pines.

After 3 miles the Historic Black Butte Trail reaches the upper trailhead and the last two mile of the hike is along this route. At the top of Black Butte in the middle of May, 2025, snow patches remained which were easily crossed. The top of the Butte was relatively snow free with all structures still locked and inaccessible to early visitors.

Hikers can enjoy the top of Black Butte with amazing Cascade Views. On a clear day, as many as 13 peaks can be seen from Mt. Bachelor in the south all the way to Mt. Adams in Washington to the north. After spending time at the summit, hikers need to descend back to the trail head in Camp Sherman. All in all, the historic Black Butte Trail is over 10 miles with 3400 feet of elevation gain in the ascending 5 miles.

Lava Butte is Located Just South of Bend

Lava Butte is part of the Lava Lands Visitor Center which is the interpretive hub for Newberry Volcanic National Monument. Located just south of Bend on the west side of Highway 97, the Visitor Center is closed from the middle of October through the beginning of May. However, the parking lot remains open year round (snow permitting) for people who hike the 5.5 mile Sun-Lava paved path over the lava fields or hike the 3.3 mile round trip up Lava Butte. The road up Lava Butte is traveled by a shuttle during the summer, but during the off season a gated fence stops vehicles from making the trip. However, hikers and bicyclists can access the butte through a person gate in the fence and enjoy the trek up the butte and views from the top.

Those who walk the 1/4 mile around Lava Butte's rim can read a lot about the geology of the area in the interpretive signs. Newberry Crater is the largest volcano in the Cascade Volcanic Arc, with an area of 1,200 square miles when its lava flows are taken into account; this area is larger than the state of Delaware. From north to south, the volcano has a length of 75 miles, with a width of 27 miles and a total volume of approximately 120 cubic miles. Over 400 lava buttes are part of the volcano, Lava Butte being one of them. From the top of the butte, many other cinder cones are visible, among the most popular for Bend residents is Pilot Butte located within the city limits.

Although not a long hike, the trek up Lava Butte provides for almost 600 feet in elevation gain along a paved road. For those who want more, there are many additional hikes in Newberry Volcanic National Monument which become available late spring/early summer.

Alder Springs Flows Into Wychus Creek

The hike to Alder Springs outside of Sisters limits motorized access from December 1st through March 31st to protect the winter rangeland of the local deer populations. However, access to the trail head is on rough dirt roads for which 4 wheel drive and high vehicle clearance is recommended. Directions to the official trail head can be found on the USDA website. The "unofficial" route involves travel on Locust Street (Camp Polk Road) in Sisters 3.1 miles north from East Cascade Avenue. Take this to Wilt Road, staying on Wilt when the pavement ends 4 miles. Past Rimrock Ranch the road is less maintained. Travel another 2.2 miles until you see a sharp unmarked turnoff to the right onto a rough dirt road. The weekend of April 5, 2025 this road was almost impassible with deep rutted mud which required challenging driving to get through. Travel on this past a gate until you reach a picnic area next to Whychus Creek which provides for a water crossing during dry times of the year. There is a beautiful mesa above the crossing and signage for a Native American archaeological site.

The early stages of the hike involves traveling next to the creek for a mile, the narrow path following the slope and involving short stretches of climbing followed by level areas. After a mile, the path steepens and hikers travel up the canyon slope and traverse above the river, with several areas close to the steep canyon cliff. Hikers should be careful here. In addition, the open high desert landscape with scattered juniper trees, sagebrush and fescue grass has limited shelter and sun exposure can be an issue with on warm summer days.

After 4.5 miles, the path drops into the bend of Wychus Creek which also contains Alder Springs. The traditional hike following the Ochoco National Forest website to Alder Springs meets here. Those who hike the recognized path have to wade across Wychus Creek here. In April 2025, the creek was full with the heavy winter snows just starting to melt.

Alder Springs itself is a beautiful oasis of water bubbling up from the ground flowing into Wychus Creek, surrounded by deciduous trees and dogwood, with Seep Monkeyflower growing in bunches on limited higher ground in the springs.

For those who wish to hike the mile and a half to the confluence of Whychus Creek with the Deschutes River, the trail has much heavier vegetation. With few people hiking this area, there are sections of the trail overgrown and hikers have to look out for both rocks which can trip people and branches which can hit heads and bodies. Part of the trail goes through a grove of horsetail. Just before reaching the confluence, there is a beautiful weeping wall with a spring of water flowing into Whychus Creek, resembling a waterfall. Hikers have to know to look for this as access to the view has heavy vegetation and it is difficult to maneuver through this.

At the confluence, beautiful rock canyon walls and a welcoming rock overlooking both rivers make for a great lunch spot. In April 2025 the water levels were very high, higher than seen in earlier years.  All in all, the full hike is over 11 miles with just over 1000 feet of gradual elevation gain.

The Burma Road, Summit Trail, Misery Ridge Loop Can be Challenging

For those looking to undergo a challenging Central Oregon hike when the Cascades are covered with snow, Smith Rock State Park can provide many options. Typically very busy in the summer when rock climbing is at its peak and the weather warm, winter hikes in Smith Rock can be rewarding with fewer crowds and different perspectives of the rocks. Before sections of the park are shut off in the spring due to falcon nesting, hikers can explore little known social trails and see portions of the park rarely visited. However, for those who wish to exert themselves, hiking along the Wolf Creek trail until connecting with Burma Road, climbing it and then hiking the north side of the park along the Summit Trail, then up Mesa Verde until connecting with Misery Ridge and climbing the backside past Monkey Face to the summit until returning down to Crooked River and then up the canyon to the parking lot can be a fulfilling winter hike of over six miles and close to 1800 feet of elevation gain. During the winter, sometimes weather conditions can create icy patches, so microspikes and trekking poles can be helpful. But if the weather cooperates, the Burma Road, Misery Ridge Loop can be a wonderful challenge.

Hike to Paulina Falls in the Winter for a Unique Experience

Once the roads into the high Cascades have been closed for the winter, there are more limited hiking opportunities for Central Oregonians. However, one favorite hike is close to La Pine state park and on the road to Newberry Crater. This is the Peter Skene Ogden trail which follows Paulina Creek all the way to Paulina Lake. Hikers can take the trail as far as they wish, although during winters with heavy snow, it can be challenging and snow shoes would be recommended.

November 2, 2024 was scheduled to be cloudy, but dry. The lower elevations of Peter Skene Ogden Trail had patchy snow, but it was easy walking.

Two and a quarter miles into the hike, the second large, "twin" waterfall is passed and then the hike steepens until the bridge is reached which crosses over Paulina Creek. Past the bridge the snow deepened and hikers without snowshoes had to post hole in soft snow to get any further. 

The path also steepens past the bridge and there was more accumulated snow. Central Oregon typically doesn't get a lot of snow early November, but 2024 was different with the snow depth on Peter Skene Ogden Trail over a foot at Paulina Falls. With more snow falling and the trees covered in a snow blanket, it was truly a winter wonderland with no other hikers seen. The entire hike up and back was just under twelve miles and over 1500 feet of elevation gain.